How to Talk to Your Tailor: Master Essential Tailoring Terms for the Perfect Fit

Walking into a tailor’s shop can be daunting with all the measuring tapes, fabric swatches, and unfamiliar terms. However, knowing how to communicate with your tailor and understanding key jargon can help you achieve the perfect fit. Especially when seeking a skilled tailor in Bangkok, where bespoke clothing is a celebrated craft, clear communication is crucial.

This guide simplifies essential tailoring terms, enabling you to speak confidently with your tailor. From darts to pleats and understanding “break” or “inseam,” you’ll soon be fluent in tailoring language. Ready to elevate your wardrobe? Let’s dive in.

Key Tailoring Terms

Alterations – Modifying an existing garment.

Alterations make off-the-rack clothes work better with your body. Whether shortening hems, taking in waists, or tapering trousers, these adjustments make store-bought garments feel custom-fitted.

Common alteration services range from (GBP x to x, THB x to x, and USD x to x). Looking for same day alterations? Click here to get your perfect suit altered today in just 24 hours! Next, let’s look at some defining jacket features like lapels.

Lapel – Notch, peak, or shawl styles.

A lapel is the folded flappy edge on the front of a jacket. Asking your tailor the right questions is pivotal in getting the right lapel.

Talking Points:

• Which lapel style is best suited for formal events?
  Peak lapels are ideal for formal events due to their sharp, sophisticated look, though Shawl lapels are also classic for black-tie affairs.
• How do I determine which lapel width is most flattering for my body type?
  Slimmer lapels suit narrower frames, while wider lapels complement broader shoulders; aim for proportionate balance with your physique.
• What role does the lapel size play in determining the overall look of a suit?
  Larger lapels create a bolder statement, while smaller lapels offer a sleeker, more modern aesthetic.

Asking your tailor the right questions is pivotal in getting the right lapel.

Vent – Single, double, or no vent.

A jacket vent refers to the slit(s) on the lower back, influencing a jacket’s movement, fit, and style. Single vents, with one centre slit, are common in American-style suits. Double vents feature slits on both sides, offering better ease of motion and breathability. Jackets with no vents favour sleek, unbroken backlines but restrict movement.

Talking Points:

• Which vent style offers the most comfort and flexibility?
  Double vents provide the most comfort and ease of movement, as they allow the jacket to drape naturally when sitting or reaching.
• Can I choose a vent style based on my body type?
  Yes—double vents suit taller or broader builds by enhancing proportion, while single vents work well for slimmer frames seeking a clean look.
• What are some practical benefits of choosing double vents over single vents?
  Double vents offer better airflow, reduce fabric bunching when seated, and provide a tailored yet functional aesthetic ideal for active wearers.

Canvas – Full, half, or fused construction.

Canvas construction determines how a jacket’s fabric is shaped and structured. Full canvassed jackets contain canvas layers stitched throughout, creating natural drapes and durability, while half canvassing covers critical areas like chest and lapels. Fused construction, cost-effective but less breathable, involves bonding interfacing to material with adhesive. When evaluating the structure of your suit, keep these points in mind to make an informed decision about canvas construction:

Talking Points:

• Can canvas construction influence how a jacket feels when worn?
  Absolutely—canvassed jackets feel lighter, mold naturally to the body, and offer greater freedom of movement compared to fused ones.
• How do I determine whether my jacket is fully canvassed, half-canvassed, or fused?
  Feel the interior chest area: fully canvassed jackets are soft and flexible, half-canvassed feel partially stiff, and fused jackets are uniformly rigid.
• Does canvas construction matter more for specific fabrics or styles?
  Yes—heavier wools benefit from full canvassing for structure, while lighter fabrics like linen might work fine with half-canvassing.

Inseam – Length from crotch to hem.

The inseam measures the inner leg seam, running from the crotch to the hem. It’s essential for defining trouser length and avoiding poorly fitting or bunched fabric around shoes. Tailors often pair inseam adjustments with personal styling, e.g., ensuring cuffs land just right. Short inseams expose ankles more, while longer ones suggest conservatism.

Talking Points:

• How does inseam length affect the overall look of an outfit?
  Proper inseam length ensures clean lines; too long creates bunching, while too short exposes excessive ankle, disrupting proportions.
• Is there an ideal inseam length for different shoe styles?
  For dress shoes, trousers should lightly break above the shoe; sneakers often suit slightly shorter hems for a modern look.
• How do I know if my trousers need an inseam adjustment?
  If they drag on the ground, bunch at the ankles, or feel too short when standing, an adjustment is likely needed.

Rise – Low, mid, or high waist position.

Rise involves the vertical distance between the crotch seam and waistline and plays a critical role in silhouette-making decisions. Low-rise trousers sit below the hips, offering a modern, casual vibe. Mid-rise designs, resting just above the hips, balance style and comfort for most body types. High-rise trousers sit on your natural waist, evoking vintage charm or emphasising leg length.

Talking Points:

• How does the rise affect the comfort and mobility of trousers?
  A higher rise may restrict movement if too tight, while mid-rise balances comfort and mobility by aligning with natural body contours.
• What body type is most flattered by high-rise trousers?
  High-rise trousers elongate the legs, making them ideal for individuals with shorter torsos or those seeking a vintage-inspired silhouette.
• Does the rise affect how trousers should be washed or cared for?
  Rise itself doesn’t dictate care, but fabric and construction (e.g., tailored vs. casual) influence maintenance routines.

Break – No, half, or full break on shoes.

Trouser break communicates how much fabric touches your shoe, reflecting your personal style. “No break” leaves trousers grazing the shoe top, offering a clean, sharp look. A “half break” achieves middle ground, with a slight fabric crease above the shoe. A “full break” delivers extra fabric length, creating multiple folds for classic styles.

Talking Points:

• Does the fabric weight influence the choice of break?
  Heavier fabrics (e.g., wool) hold structure better for full breaks, while lighter materials (e.g., cotton) suit no or half breaks
• What body type is best suited for a “no break” style?
  Slimmer builds or shorter individuals benefit from the streamlined look of a “no break”
• What are common mistakes to avoid when selecting a break?
  Overlooking shoe height (e.g., pairing “no break” with thick soles) or mismatching breaks with outfit formality

Yoke – Back panel shaping.

The yoke refers to the horizontal fabric panel across the back of a shirt, just below the collar that helps shape the shirt’s shoulders and back contour.

Talking Points:

• What is the difference between a plain yoke and a split yoke?
  A plain yoke is a single horizontal panel, while a split yoke divides the panel into two sections for precise pattern alignment and a tailored fit.
• How does the yoke affect a shirt’s comfort and mobility?
  The yoke distributes fabric across the shoulders, allowing flexibility and ease of movement, especially during activities like bending or reaching.
• Are split yokes worth the extra cost for everyday wear?
  Split yokes enhance durability and fit, making them a practical investment for high-quality, long-lasting shirts

Placket – Buttoned front structure.

A shirt’s placket is the vertical strip of fabric running down the front where buttons and buttonholes align.

Talking Points:

• What is the difference between a classic placket and a French placket?
  A classic placket features visible stitching and a reinforced strip for buttons/buttonholes, while a French placket is seamless, with the fabric folded inward for a clean, minimalist look.
• How does the placket style affect a shirt’s formality?
  French plackets are sleeker and preferred for formal shirts, while classic plackets add structure and are common in casual or traditional designs.
• Ideally, where should buttonholes be placed on a placket?
  Buttonholes should run vertically along the center front (CF) of the placket, with buttons positioned at the top of the holes (not the middle) for proper alignment.

Cuffs – Barrel or French styles.

Cuffs secure a shirt’s sleeve end, serving both functionality and style.

Talking Points:

• How can I ensure my shirt cuffs fit properly under a jacket?”
  Cuffs should extend ½” beyond the jacket sleeve, sit snugly at the wrist bone, and avoid excessive tightness or looseness.
• How does cuff style affect the formality of a shirt?
  Barrel cuffs are adaptable for business or casual wear, whereas French cuffs are reserved for formal occasions due to their elegant, cufflink-fastened design.
• How can I adjust the fit of my shirt cuffs?
  Barrel cuffs offer button adjustments for wrist snugness 48, while French cuffs rely on cufflinks and tailored stiffness to maintain shape.

How to Talk to Your Tailor

Building a good rapport with your tailor starts with effective communication. Whether you’re altering a shirt or commissioning a bespoke suit, knowing how to articulate your preferences makes the process smoother and the outcome more gratifying.

Explaining fit preferences

How to Talk to Your Tailor: Key Terms Explained

• Fit Preferences: Clothing fits can be slim, regular, or relaxed.
  • Slim Fit: Closely hugs the body; modern look.
  • Regular Fit: Balanced between comfort and shape.
  • Relaxed Fit: Offers more room for movement.
• Specific Adjustments: You can request changes:
  • Taper trouser legs for a sharper look.
  • Shorten jacket sleeves to show more cuff.
  • Discuss suit comfort vs. structure (padded shoulders for formality vs. natural for a softer look).

Choosing the right fabric

• Fabric Choice: Affects formality, durability, and comfort.
  • Wool: Common in suits (worsted for year-round, tweed for winter).
  • Cotton: Breathable for casual shirts.
  • Linen: Light but wrinkles easily, good for summer.
  • Silk: Luxurious but needs more care.
• Blends: Consider mixes like wool and polyester for less wrinkling and refined look.
• Fabric Weight: Measured in grams per metre (220–300g for summer suits, 400g+ for winter).
• Allergies: Important to discuss, as synthetic fabrics can irritate sensitive skin.

Understanding the tailoring process

• Tailoring has several stages, starting with measurements and ending with the final fitting.
• Bespoke garments usually need 2–3 fittings, beginning with pinning and marking fabric on a mannequin to create the basic shape.
• Made-to-measure clothing skips the first fitting step and uses adjusted patterns instead.
• Alterations are more straightforward and involve measuring areas like the shoulders, chest, waist, and seat.
• For complex suits, a “fit model” may be used to check details like lapel rolls and hem lengths.
• Plan for 1–4 weeks for tailoring, depending on the project size and tailor’s schedule.
• Understanding these steps highlights the precision and care tailors apply to their craft.

Mastering tailoring terms and understanding the process can transform your wardrobe and boost your confidence. By knowing how to communicate your preferences clearly, you’ll ensure your garments reflect your style and fit perfectly. Whether you’re opting for bespoke, made-to-measure, or simply getting alterations, you’re now equipped to navigate the tailoring world with ease.